Barbara Walters chats with Forward Syria
Swaying between art and seduction
Discussing monetary policy with the man in charge
Where the earth screams in horror
12/02/2010 - Issue 46
Celebrating Christmas the Syrian way
by Jennifer Mackenzie
Once again this year Lana’s three daughters will write and decorate letters to Papa Noël, telling him what gifts they want for Christmas. Then, on Christmas Eve, they will put their shoes under the Christmas tree and wait excitedly to see what gifts they’ll find there in the morning.
Lana recalls this as her own favorite moment from childhood. “Especially because we didn't have a lot of toys,” she says. “Now everything is cheaper, and it's more common for children to have more gifts.”
Still, while the abundance of everything from electronics to Christmas decorations has added new layers to Christmas traditions in Syria, she feels the fundamentals haven't changed. “It's a day to spend enjoying being part of this family, that you're healthy and together. You can feel it from December 3, the feast of Santa Barbara. After this day we put up the tree, decorate the house, and start making cakes and cookies.”
Churches organize singing recitals, a scout march, and, along with many schools, donations of food, clothes, and other gifts for poorer families. On Christmas Eve, people attend Midnight Mass. “When you go to church you see it's full; even those who don't usually go [to mass], go on this special holiday,” Lana says.
Christmas Day is for visiting family members’ houses and eating with them. Traditional dishes include the “King's Cake,” which is baked with a coin inside it; whoever receives the coin in his slice is supposed to have good luck throughout the following year. The celebrations continue through New Year until January 6, only then can the Christmas tree be taken down.
Most people now put up plastic trees, which are in cheap supply from China. And the latest influx of Christmas products has created a new niche in fashion: Christmas moda. “Last year, purple was in vogue; this year it's orange,” declares Bassim Khoury, owner of Abiba decorating shop in Qassa.
When Abiba opened in 1987, it was half its current size, and only sold locally-made decorations. Now, Khoury says proudly, his enlarged shop is bursting with Santas sliding down ropes, plush pastel pinecones, huge glittery globes, and racks of children's costumes and masks for Santa Barbara's day, ranging from Tweetie Bird to witches, wolves, and evil clowns.
To keep up with trends, Khoury travels to China every year, to shop at a five-day Christmas trade fair he describes as “awesome!” Then, at the end of November, he displays his latest selections on a model tree outside his shop. And in December, surrounding Qassa and Bab Touma become the epicenters of Christmas display, with households vying to create the most elaborate nativity scenes.
“People are spending more money on decorations,” says George Sharin, a resident of Qassa. “In the old times it was just about church and home, but these days you can see Santa Clauses in the streets, and shops are hiring them, too. Now it's more obvious; you can see the holiday spirit in the streets.”
Sharin's own contribution is officially the grandest: he masterminded the construction of a 40-meter-high Christmas tree in the centre of George Khoury Square. The tree, which earned Syria a place in the Guinness Book of World Records, was decorated with a string of 17,000 beads and 8,000 lights, while beside it, Santas gave away 1,000 gifts a day.
“I wanted to show that all religions live peacefully in Syria,” Sharin explains. He's happy that Syria became the first place in the Middle East to do such a thing. This year, the tree - which has toured Homs, Aleppo, Hama, Idleb, and Deir ez-Zour - will stand either in Suwayda or Hasake.
Meanwhile, in Jaramana, “It doesn't matter if people are rich or poor, everyone makes an effort,” says one resident of the suburb. “People in general love to celebrate here, and they celebrate in a traditional way. There's a village feel to it.”
“Some of the decorations they've got up aren't really for Christmas, but people put them up just because they've got a light in them,” his friend chimes in. “If there's something in front of their shops they can stick a light on, they do. The buses are all fitted with lights, and playing Christmas music, and people stay up all night, walking around in their Christmas clothes. And there's a haze overhead, from everyone setting off fireworks - from grandparents to children.”
“Ten years ago, people here only celebrated their own holidays,” adds a local shopkeeper. “But now the Christians also set off fireworks on Eid al-Adha, and Muslims and Druze at Christmas.”
And behind the glitter, people express love and generosity in modest yet lasting ways. “Every year I give some of my clothes to orphanages,” another shopkeeper explains. For him, Christmas is about including everyone – “even the aunt you never knew about.” “Even if people are fighting with each other, we cannot hold a grudge at Christmas,” he says. “The holiday puts peace in our hearts.”
Farid Cachecho:
I am a christian Syrian,living in Brussels since 1975.Reading this article about the peaceful coexistence in Syria between all religions is a real joy and a "hope booster" for the future.The events against christians in Irak are frightening...and the Syrian example is more than ever important.Long live Syria.