Photo By Carole al-Farah

In the early evening, in the neighborhood of Azzazeen, the street is filled with police, and neighborhood vendors rush to move produce from sidewalks and into their shops. Violating businesses were fined and huge piles of produce were hauled away. According to local vendors, these raids occur once a month, if not more, and are even more frequent in other neighborhoods.

Throughout Damascus, police and produce vendors are in a constant state of friction. Shops selling produce on the sidewalks and street vendors without appropriate licenses are fined; fruits and vegetables are confiscated. One shop owner, with 40 years experience, compares it to a never ending game of cat and mouse.

Everyday in Damascus large quantities of fruits and vegetables are confiscated and vendors lose their daily investment. Officially, the confiscated products are given to a charity. Vendors question whether the products actually reach the charities, but police are confident that all confiscations are documented and delivered.

In the old Souq al-Hal, police and vendors interact on a daily basis, with regular police patrols of the area. When vendors do not cooperate, police issue fines to shops, confiscate produce from street vendors and arrests occur every few days. Fines range from 1,000 to 3,000 SP for shops. Police say that arrests only occur when vendors do not cooperate, and individuals can be held in police custody for up to 24 hours. According to one policeman, repeat offenders are sentenced to up to three months in jail.

Many women come from outside Damascus to sell one or two baskets of vegetables in the city. Female street vendors are common in Souq al-Hal, as men are more likely to have conflicts with the police. One female vendor, a ten-year veteran of the souq, says that she would prefer not to sell illegally on the pavement, "but wherever you are the police come, and it is better than begging."

Street vendors admit that the market causes severe congestion, and police admit that vendors are simply trying to survive. Police continue the patrols because as one policemen remarks, "Vendors will slowly encroach until they fill the entire street." Vendors agree that this true, but the competition is tough.

One vendor, who has been arrested several times, suggested that the city authorities create more appropriate places for small street vendors to sell their products. The small vendors would also like to see the government offer more affordable licenses, which would allow them to more easily comply with the law. Licenses can be as much as 50,000 SP a season for some products sold in particular locations.

Back in Azzazeen, one fruit vendor says that he is nervous about the next police raid. He does not have a shop and sells from the side of the road. This last raid cost him approximately 1,500 SP in confiscated fruits, mostly strawberries and oranges. If he does not have a license for each and every product, then his entire inventory may be confiscated.

One melon seller with a horse and cart had his weights and balance confiscated 15 days ago, a penalty for operating without a license. He knows that his cart could be confiscated one day, but remarks, "I worry, but I have to work."

While street vendors face confiscation, shops selling on the sidewalks are often fined. One shopkeeper reported that when police fine for every meter of sidewalk infringement, he pays as much as 4,000 SP. Other times, he is either fined 200 SP or his produce is confiscated. The shopkeeper prefers the police to confiscate his produce, worrying that his shop will be closed if he receives too many tickets.

After three tickets in a 12 month period, a business will be shut down for several days, according to shop owners. A large corner produce shop was closed for 15 days six months ago after receiving three tickets averaging 3,000 SP each.

A nearby pickle shop has been forced to close twice in the last five years. The closure cost the shopkeeper approximately 5,000 SP in lost business in addition to the payment of the fine. The owner says that the fines are fair, and thinks of the fine as rent payment for the sidewalk space. Still, he would prefer to have a sidewalk license, so as to avoid risk of closure.

For most vendors, the business generated by selling on the sidewalks is worth the risk. Vendors say that as long as other vendors are selling on the sidewalk, they will be forced to compete by doing the same. Others say that it is more comfortable for women in this traditional neighborhood to buy produce on the sidewalk and not inside the shops.

Also, vendors admit that they are able to maintain a larger inventory using the extra square meters provided by the sidewalk.

Many vendors would like a license to sell on the sidewalk. But, this is unlikely to happen according to the neighborhood Mokhtar, who told Forward, "Sidewalks are not private property. They are your right, my right, everyone's right." Neither police nor vendors see a way to resolve the ongoing tensions.

Produce vendors are the backbone of Syrian neighborhoods, providing fruits and vegetables to families throughout the country. Despite the obstacles, they will continue to struggle for a better life in whatever way they can.

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