What does Ramadan mean to you? Is it a month of contemplation and prayer, a chance to be closer to God, to exercise compassion and share in human suffering? Or is it a social occasion? A time to gorge on sumptuous Syrian cuisine, catch up on the latest television series’ and get some much needed rest?

Mohammad, 19, works in his father’s retail business and like many people his age, is looking forward to long sleep-ins and long parties while business is slow. “It’s just like a holiday,” he said. He said he and his friends, “Do whatever we would do anyway–except go to work. Girls today, they don’t want to cook. So we go out and eat in restaurants. It’s a sociable time.”

For many people Ramadan means one thing: food.

Quiet days give way to a carnival atmosphere on Ramadan nights as Syrians and visitors take to the streets for Iftar—the sunset fast-breaking meal—celebrating at restaurants and Ramadan tents dotted across their city.

Celebrations continue through the night, with Iftar filtering into all-night indulgence, right up to pre-dawn Sahour—traditionally a light breakfast eaten ahead of first prayers. Restaurants are the big winners during Ramadan.

Manar Marawi, the general manager of Haratna Restaurant in Damascus’ Old City said the restaurant is booked out weeks in advance. Until 2007, Marawi only opened after 4pm during Ramadan. But this year, like many restaurants catering to a growing tourism market, he will open from 12pm to cater to lunch crowds. And, like others, he said he will serve alcohol during the day. “Four years ago, I would never, but now it’s ok. We have to accommodate the tourists. ”Other restaurant owners compete by including entertainment in their Iftar packages.

In religiously-mixed areas like Bab Touma, Christians look forward to joining in celebrations alongside their Muslim friends. Abir, 28, is a Christian social worker. She said she enjoys the atmosphere more now than when she first arrived in Damascus four years ago. She believes Damascenes have become more tolerant of differing traditions during the holiday. “Four years ago I made the mistake of eating in the street. I was in a Christian area but still an old man threw walnuts at me.”

While she avoids eating in front of fasting colleagues out of respect, she said, “I think it’s OK if you’re chewing gum or drinking something in the street in most places now,” she said. “We really enjoy going to the tents and eating in hotels.” And like many Syrians, Abir said she can’t wait to watch the new television series’ released during Ramadan.

Some new traditions are even emerging, borrowing elements from other religious holidays.

In a growing trend typically reserved for Eid, Diana, 20, exchanges small gifts of food and trinkets with friends during Ramadan. Even prayers are more social during Ramadan, with men and women attending the morning prayer—usually performed alone at home—in groups at the mosque after sharing Sahour.

Traditional Iftar meals, typically shared over intimate family reunions, are slowly declining as families battle economic challenges and inflation pare back on home invitations.

Lower income earners say the price of food had increased by up to 15% to 25% during Ramadan last year, straining their ability to extend invitations. Sama’a, 36, in Jaramanah, said her family could simply not afford to host 20 to 30 people as in previous years. “It costs us around 10,000 SP. That’s a whole month’s salary.’’

The owner of Asadieh Arabic Sweets, Ahmad Asadieh, said while Ramadan remained the most profitable time of the year for the company, he had noticed a decrease in the large orders of traditional sweets—Namoura, creamy Nahesh and Nawasia. “People will always like to break their fast with sweets, but they are spending less than before,” he said.


Overcoming temptation; and change

But while traditionalists may lament a creeping commercial Ramadan, many young people say it has provided an opportunity to reassess their personal connection with God and Islam. Amjad, a 24-year-old graphic designer from Mezzeh, said growing foreign influences and a desire to “fit in” had distracted him over the years. Amjad identified himself as a “modern guy” who “slept with girls, drank alcohol and went to parties.” But after years “away’’ from God, he will fast this year and is even preparing to take Umrah—the voluntary pilgrimage to Mecca—for the first time this year.

Amjad said he felt pressure to conform to new ideals. “Syria is developing and cultural things are changing, we are being invaded by the media and by other cultures,” he said. “Suddenly everything is open. The relationships between people are different. I didn’t believe in God or Islam for a long time. I was drifting ... influenced by the idea that you should have a girlfriend, go to parties. I was tempted.”

“There was conflict. I knew what was right, I understood it logically, but I didn’t have the willpower and the strength to keep track of these things. There are so many more temptations.” Importantly, Amjad said the realization needed to come from within and said straying from his religion was partly a rebellion.

“It’s not something that I have just been told through my dad or through school. I am reading the Koran myself and understanding why we do this, rather than being told what to do. This year I want it to be different. I am going to do the Umrah. I will try to observe every element of the fast. I’m going to try to be a good Muslim.”

Osama, a technical advisor with an NGO in Damascus, said despite witnessing massive societal changes and a definite shift away from tradition in Syria, the spirit of Ramadan stays the same on a personal level.

“It can definitely be more of a social month. There’s no school, so it’s time to sleep all day and then spend time with friends all night at parties and restaurants—but Ramadan is meant to be about suffering," he told Forward. Living in Sharqi Tijara, he said while it was once unthinkable that someone should be seen eating or smoking in the street, it is now quite common.

“Once upon a time, you would be made to feel very bad, but now people keep their opinion to themselves. I can’t decide whether it is freedom or a lack of respect.” But overall, he said, he feels the changes are bad.

“I can’t see the benefit in treating Ramadan as a social occasion.”
He will spend Ramadan observing the Tarawih prayers, reading the Koran in quiet contemplation and remembering others through charity. Rather than a big Iftar, he said he and his family extend invitations to those they know who need it, keeping the meal modest and discreet.
“If you really want to observe the spirit of Ramadan, forget the restaurants and invite those you know can’t afford it into your home.”

Marketing professional Bana, 28, has a similar perspective, describing her personal understanding of Ramadan as a reaction to the increasing commercial aspect of the month.

“I realized it is all about the food. Ramadan is supposed to be about charity, about helping the poor and sharing their suffering. It’s become a circus for food and an excuse to be lazy. What kind of suffering is that?”

Ironically, she said she now feels a closer connection to God by not participating in what she feels are corrupted versions of the traditions.

“I don’t want it to be like this, so I feel like the only way to reject the commercialization is by not accepting the invitations and not participating at all. God exists all year and doesn’t need decoration. God exists when you really challenge yourself without compromising your dignity,” she said.

Muayad, a 24-year-old graphic designer, will fast this year for the first time in six years.

“Fasting is cleansing to the body which is cleansing to the soul. I’m not going to have a big Iftar or anything like that. That’s not the point.”

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